Grilla Bites

Sarah Lemon, Medford Mail Tribune
January 13, 2006

A new organic eatery may not be the 500-pound gorilla in Medford's restaurant jungle. But if Grilla Bites continues to offer quality, healthy fare at lunch-appropriate prices, it should muscle its way to major downtown competitor.

The restaurant, based in Chico, Calif., brought its mission statement to the Rogue Valley this month. Housed in C.K. Tiffin's former Main Street site, Grilla Bites maintained the former establishment's cafeteria atmosphere. They pledge to support the environment and community while being a watchdog for customers' health. Surprisingly, owner Fred Marken chose Medford as his newest location instead of Ashland.

Despite its vegetarian bent, Grilla Bites has something to please everyone. If you just can't stomach trying a soy patty or grilled slab of tofu, turkey, pastrami, tuna or salmon can head to the rescue.

If a fresh, organic raw juice isn't tempting, Grilla Bites has a full espresso bar specializing in organic coffee.

An expansive soup and salad bar guides patrons to the cash register, where orders are placed. Grilled selections are served to the table. The day's four soups sounded tempting, particularly a vegan ginger-carrot. But, quite honestly, I had been looking forward to a soy burger. I ordered the Blue Bacon burger ($7.95), complete with soy bacon, no less. I tacked on a fresh juice for $3.50.

One friend ordered the BBQ Veggie Cheeseburger (7.95), which also included soy bacon while another opted for the salad bar, which is priced at $7.95 per pound. She commented that grazers could easily rack up an expensive salad if they fill their bowls with the more weighty items. In addition to bay shrimp, tofu and enough nuts, seeds, sprouts and vegetables to satisfy any herbivore, the salad bar boasts three composed salads.

The tabbouleh's lemony flavor contrasted with raisins in a sweeter brown rice pilaf. A whole-wheat corkscrew pasta looked bland but was surprisingly flavorful.

Our rabbity friend had no qualms about munching away while we awaited our burgers, which also included a side of homemade hummus and veggies or corn chips.

Far from screaming "soy," the first bite of my Blue Bacon was flavorful with layers of texture. The soy bacon was crispy. The, paper-thin, non-greasy onions were cooked just until soft, retaining a bit of crunch. My spinach and tomato even appeared on the side, as requested.

But the pillowy, toasted bun was reason enough to favor Grilla Bites' version of a burger. The bun topped those on any burger anywhere. My friend agreed although she thought the soy bacon wasn't as tasty as others she'd tried.

Both Weight Watchers members, my friends counted the points in each meal, while observing that the salad bar could have more fat-free dressing selections.

I was already planning my next Grilla Bites meal. "Mom's Grilled Cheese" with its cheddar, mozzarella and pesto paired with a cup of tomato soup ($6.95) would make a perfect rainy-day pick-me-up.

Grilla Bites is located at 226 E. Main St. in Medford. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily. Call 245-9802.